We left Colioure Sunday morning and headed back north towards Toulouse hoping to stay near the Canal du Midi to take a cycle along the towpath.

After a couple of failed attempts at finding a campsite (first one closed, second no facilities) we eventually found one, down what was almost a goat track, at St Laurent. It was virtually empty and it’s very hard to imagine how some of these places survive as they’re only really busy for around 6-8 weeks of the year during the French school holidays in July and August.

After checking in we drove down to the Canal Du Midi, unloaded the bikes and set out towards Gardouchs.

Canal Du Midi, Haute Garonne, France

It’s interesting watching the boats navigate the numerous locks which all seem automated. You press a button on the control post according to which direction you want to go, the lock gates open, the lock fills, or empties, the gates open at the other end and you’re through. The skill level of the different “captains” is certainly varied!

Canal Du Midi, Haute Garonne, France

Monday morning we set off for Toulouse. This is France’s fourth largest city and sits on the River Garonne. The only campsite we could find was near the airport, in fact possibly on the end of the runway! It was a fairly rundown city campsite but was clean and friendly.

Canal Du Midi, Touolouse, Haute Garonne, France

To get into the city (about 7km away) was easy by bus to Arennes and then metro. Public transport’s cheap here – $NZ4.00 return each to do that journey. We got off the Metro at “Capitole” which brings you out into Place du Capitole and next to the Tourist Office and Town Hall. The central city feels young and vibrant – it’s a big student town.

One of the big points of interest here are the array of quite spectacular churches. Of particular note was the Cathédrale St. Étienne which was constructed between 13th and 17th centuries and has a particularly impressive interior decor.

Cathédrale St. Étienne, Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France

Basilique St.Sernin is UNESCO listed as a World Heritage site and is one of the most important preserved basilicas in Europe.

Basilique St Sernin, Toulouse, France

Finally, Convent des Jacobins is a huge 12th century Gothic brick built former convent most noteable for it’s incredible palm vaults.

Convent des Jacobins, Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France

We also visited the Pont Neuf and walked through the Allées Verdier and Grand Rond to the Canal du Midi.

Pont Neuf, Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France

Grand Rond, Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France

This area, in particular, had a high concentration of groups of men who seemed to be drawn together by their love of drink and their dogs.

After Toulouse we headed north to Albi, another red brick city and birthplace of Toulouse Latrec.

View from Toulouse Latrec Museum, Albi, Tarn, France

It’s much smaller than Toulouse and very clean and pleasant to stroll around. The Toulouse Latrec museum is the highlight here and houses over 1000 of his works.

Toulouse Latrec Museum Gardens, Albi, Tarn, France

He was an amazingly prolific artist considering he died at the age of 36. I hadn’t realised that he had such a huge body of work prior to his iconic lithographic advertisements for the Parisian bordellos. Sad to say I also showed my ignorance as I only now realise who that strange little character in Baz Lurhmann’s Moulin Rouge was modelled on.

Pont Neuf, Albi, Tarn, France

Also impressive in Albi is the Cathédrale St. Cecile, a huge 13th century cathedral that is one of the world’s largest brick built buildings and another UNESCO listed site.

Cathédrale St. Cecile, Albi, Tarn, France

We left Albi early afternoon to set off on a 3 hour drive to Lourdes.