After leaving Collioure the SatNav took us on some fairly interesting “shortcuts” – this is where it attempts to cut a few 100 metres of a major road by using a diagonal minor road. In towns we’ve learnt to recognise those, and ignore them, but as we headed into the Pyrenees all roads became minor and as such the “shortcuts” were much harder to spot and avoid.

En route to Carcossonne, Aude, France

A couple of roads through one town were just wide enough for the campervan with terraced housing either side and there was a bit of breathing in during the tight spots. There’s always that moment where we’re having the conversation – Q. “Is this a one-way street?”, A. “I hope so”, Q. “Are we going the right way?”, A. “Not sure- what do you think?”

En route to Carcossonne, Aude, France

We were heading for one of the so called “five sons of Carcossonne” – Château de Puilarens. The first recorded mention of a castle on this site was in 958. In the mid 13th century King Louis ordered the strengthening of the castle, along with four others, as part of a defense network against Aragon (now Spain). It makes an impressive site, perched high on a rocky hilltop above the Boulzanes valley.

Château de Puilaurens, Aude, France

There’s a long walk up from the valley, or you can drive higher to the visitor centre and then take a steep but shorter walk to the Château from there. We chose to do the latter.

Château de Puilaurens, Aude, France

The Château itself has been largely abandanded since the middle of the 17th century and is somewhat decayed. Nevertheless, it’s remarkable to think such a structure could have been built in such a remote place.

Château de Puilaurens, Aude, France

The views are impressive and it’s clear to see how difficult the castle would have been to attack with all approaches being so steep and exposed.

Château de Puilaurens, Aude, France

Château de Puilaurens, Aude, France

Next stop was Carcossonne – the medieval fairy tale castle.

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Approaching it we felt more like we were entering a theme park than an historic monument!

Carcossonne, Aude, France

It’s scale is immense but the narrow streets inside the fortified city are lined with charmless souvenir shops and it all feels a little less than authentic. I’ll let the pictures tell the story – suffice to say we were intrigued but didn’t stay for long!

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Carcossonne, Aude, France

Il y a quelque jours nous avions une autre petite problème avec la pèage. Elle n’accepte pas nos billets ou nos pièces. La personne qui a parlé avec nous, grâce à l’interphone, elle ne parle pas anglais et elle a dit nous devons rester à la pèage et une personne va arriver.

Elle a dit beaucoup de fois <désolé monsieur, la machine est caput, quelqu’un va ariver bientòt>. Et puis <désolé monsieur, la machine est caput, quelqu’un va ariver dans 10 minutes!>. Je me suis plaint et, finalement, elle nous a dit de mettre les pièces dans une boîte aux lettres à côté de la pèage et elle a levé la porte!

C’etait un peu bizarre et quand nous avons aussi poussé le bouton <anglais> une voix enregistrée dit “Vinci Autoroutes apologises for the delay – do not leave your car or reverse out of the toll – we will be with you shortly”. La pèage est vraiment fou!